The longevity of a blowout depends on 3 factors: Head Shape, Hair Fabric and the Grade of Sensitivity.
1. Head shape
To assess your clients head shape you need to start by running your hands over the clients head shape to find out if the bones in the head are smaller or larger or if it is perfectly shaped.
2. Fabric of the hair (type and character of the hair, such as; fine, medium, coarse and character such as, straight, wavy, and curly.)
For the hair fabric grab one small section of hair about 1″ W x 1/4″ L that way you can see if the hair is fine, medium, or coarse.
To determine if the client has straight, wavy or curly hair it is easiest to just ask them. With today’s advanced styling tools you really can’t tell by looking most of the time.
3. Grade of Sensitivity
For the grade of sensitivity you will see the healthy hair (S1) is on the left side of the photo. As you can see the cuticle/ hair shaft is completely sealed whereas on the right side (s5) damaged hair is completely stretched and will feel very rough. To find out the grade of sensitivity you will need to single out one strand of hair. Using your index finger and thumb run the finger gently down the hair cuticle/shaft when the hair stops being smooth and starts feeling rough that’s when you know it is damaged. S5 level of damage will fall apart in your hands. If your client is S5 she doesn’t need a blow-dry. She needs a deep treatment or her hair will never heal and absolutely NO HEAT STYLING for her hair. For S4-S3 you can heal this with proper products.
The reason we always need to analyze our clients is to help pick out the correct tools and products for their specific type of hair and head shape. For example, I have fine, curly hair but the back of my head is very flat/ small. Before I was a hairdresser I used to blow-dry it straight and never understood why everyone would tell me it didn’t match me. I later discovered that my curly hair was cover the flatness of the back of my head whereas the straight hair emphasized it.
If a clients hair is fine and straight, use a volumizing shampoo like, Bain Volumfique shampoo from Kerastase, but skip the conditioner. Apply a volumizing mousse like Mousse Volumfique to towel-dried hair and distribute with your fingers. Snap a diffuser onto your dryer, tip the clients head over, and begin removing moisture, concentrating on the roots. Use medium heat. Once the hair is 85% dry, apply your mousse one more time to the root area and finish drying the hair. Next, divide the head into large sections and dry each one with a large, T3 Tourmaline Ionic bristle brush. Immediately after blow-drying, mist each section with hairspray and pop it into a Velcro roller to cool. After 15 to 20 minutes, remove the rollers and brush through the hair gently. If the hair feels too soft, mist the brush with some VIP Volume Powder Spray from Kerastase and work it through the root of the hair. This will create a teasing affect.
If the clients hair is coarse, frizzy and curly you can tame it with Bain Oleo Riche shampoo and Maskeratine conditioner from Kerastase. The key to taming frizz is to get moisture into the hair while it is wet, so make sure to add Keratine Thermique and Elixer Ultime to the mid lengths and ends of the hair after washing before you begin blow-drying. For thick, coarse, curly hair you only want to dry it up to 30% while it is still damp use a round boar brush and blow-dry it section by section in a very slow and precise manner stretching the hair as you go. Once the hair is completely blow-dried according to the clients head shape, the areas that are smaller you can put in the rollers to create volume. In the back of the hair start with your GHD Ceramin Flat Iron and slowly and precisely section by section straighten the hair. If the client wants volume skip flat ironing the root, the mid lengths and ends are enough.